3D Printer Check Blocks. A holey block and a 1/4″ diameter Ring pin allow you to find out what type of fit you’d like your pins and holes to have. The holey block has a 1/4″ hole and then 6 more holes each 5mil bigger than the previous. The sloped green block is shown upside down in this photo, but it’s used to test the angle at which you need to start adding support. The support checker contains angles from 10 – 70 degrees, at which point, I believe, the underside becomes a bit sloppy. I don’t recommend printing more than 45 degrees from vertical.
The Excel file below will do all the balancing math for you. Now check all the equations, ESPECIALLY the one about fin area. This sheet has the equation set for a SEMI-Circular fin, which is odd. Just use your head, and triple check each step as you play with this. Finish your stability check with a twirl test!
These can cause some serious tire or foot damage. Please don’t damage anything you are not equipped to pay for. 3D printed caltrop legs and a universal assembly jig is included.
A Mostly 3D Printed Camera Slider. You will also need a toothed belt for a 3D printer and 10 608 bearings, and 8mm or 5/16 bolts to attach them. 16 small screws finish it all off. The STL files for the slider parts can be had below.
This one will require a small 1.5-4.5v hobby motor, a small compression spring for the positive terminal, a momentary pushbutton switch, and some wire.
The files below are not for the spin art machine. They are for the label slitter that we used to unwrap over 200 crayons. You’ll insert a regular utility blade and a small machine screw holds it together
